By Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
The Marmot Greenland Baffled Jacket is a specialist bit of kit for high-altitude and Polar regions. It is very hard to review a jacket such as this, because it does what it is designed for very well, but its uses are clearly limited to the greater ranges and the Arctic and Antarctic.
In terms of the high-altitude mountaineering uses of the jacket, it is ideal for expeditions in the 7,000m region. For its weight, it is exceptionally warm thanks to the 800+ fill, and equally compressible when stuffed into its own pocket. The hood is helmet-compatible and is highly adjustable.
The cut of the Marmot Greenland Baffled Jacket is something of note, as it has the perfect length so as not to hinder a harness, but equally, it doesn’t ride up and create cold spots when in use.
The jacket, unlike models such as the Rab Summit Down Jacket, is a box-wall construction, especially noticeable at the front of the jacket, which serves to eliminate cold spots through down becoming misplaced.
Finally, in terms of features, the zip is of high quality, and resists freezing solid exceptionally well.
The Marmot Greenland Baffled Jacket has four large pockets, two on the inner and two hand-warmer-style pockets on the outside. And that’s it; there are no unnecessary features, only vital components to keep you alive in the extreme cold.
It should be noted that if climbing with non-dexterous mitts, you should lengthen the zip pulls to make them easy to grab once at altitude. Although this isn’t a weakness of the jacket, it’s an important consideration if you intend to climb with large summit-style down mitts and don’t want to risk frostbite by constantly taking gloves off.
The whole jacket is exceptional. It is incredibly lightweight and exceptionally warm. The outer fabric is tough but light, with a smooth inner lining that is very comfy.
The hood fits extremely well, with or without a helmet, and is easily adjustable.
Finally, the jacket has a great cut and only has the most necessary features, which makes the jacket very user-friendly when hypoxic at 7,000m or higher.
The outer fabric is not as waterproof as the Rab Summit Batura Down, but this is countered by the weight difference of the two jackets. The Rab Summit Batura Down is almost one-and-a-half times the weight of the Marmot, with both filled with almost the same weight of down.
The waterproofing on the outer fabric isn’t an issue at high altitude and if extremely wet snow is encountered, a shell can be put over the top if in doubt.
If used in its intended environment, the Marmot Greenland Baffled Jacket is faultless. Indeed, it is also adaptable to cold Alpine belays and comparable situations due to its incredible warmth-to-weight ratio. It also copes particularly well during long expeditions where lengthy exposure to the cold is expected.
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